Step 8. Top skin


2016-10-16: After sanding and tidying up after glassing the top spar cap, I started step 8 by removing the fishtail first. This is because the conduit adapted for the hidden bellhorns comes in conflict with the fishtail on the outboard end. Removing the peel ply was not as easy as the plans said. I remember reading about other having the same problem as well.I managed to remove it with quite some struggle. It resulted in some deep ridges on the foam nearby the trailing edge. I will fill this with flox I think right before I glass the top skin.

I also Dremeled the conduit for the Nyloaflow tubing to the rudders. As I am installing the hidden bellhorns I need to route the conduit a bit different on the outboard end. Everything is explained at Marc Z’s website. Glued the tubing with some 5 min epoxy.

2016-10-22: Started to glass the top skin. After the first ply I realized I was short of UNI! Bummer… I managed to glass half of the second ply before I had to peel ply everything and order more UNI.

To ensure that the soft trailing edge gets straight I had purchased an aluminum angle which I covered with duct tape and then clamped over the trailing edge on top of the peel ply.

2016-12-27: After two months I finally found some time to finish the top skin. I removed the peel ply, brushed on some epoxy and added the remaining UNI and all the small patches of UNI and BID. Peel plied everything and set to cure.

2016-12-29: After cure I removed the peel ply and trimmed all the edges. Then I reinstalled the top wing jig (#4). I had to trim it a bit since it was too tight after the foam was glassed. Then I shimmed the wing so that the jig was level. I also reinstalled jig #2 and checked the alignment here. It was level as it should be (phew!).

Finally in this step I bondoed a straight 2 feet long piece of wood parallell to butt line 67.5. This wood has to be level as well as this will be the reference when mounting the wings to the spar.