2013-12-15: To fasten the strut to MKNG15 I will use the approach suggested by several builders, including Marc Zeitlin and Dave Martin. There are three easy steps:
1: Remove some aluminum in the casting of MKNG15 to make a “bulb” shaped cavity so the flox can trap the strut inside MKNG15. The strut is then prevented from sliding out of MKNG15.
2: Add some strips of BID to the strut so it fits inside the enlarged opening in MKNG15. Make the end of the strut a bit “fatter”.
3: Fill the cavity with flox, as well as make a buildup of flox between NG2 and the assembly.
2013-12-15: Dale M suggests to make a 4BID pad under the NG2 to stiffen up this part some more. I made this on plastic on the table and put some release-tape under NG2 before I put the BID-pad under NG2.
Btw. I bought a rotary-cutter which I found by accident when I was out shopping. Wow – why didn’t I buy this tool earlier? I recommend this for everyone!
2013-12-15: Here the assembly is filled with flox and set to cure. Later I will clean up the flox that have been oozing out as I thightened the bolts. The bolts btw is just some scrap bolts I had. I will of course use proper AN-bolts and lock-nuts when I’m finished.
2013-12-27: Next step is to mount the nosestrut-assembly and open up the floor for the nosewheel. There are several ways to approach this, I ended up following the method described by Wayne Hicks. Instead of making a rounded opening following the profile of the wheel, I make a rectangular opening, or actually a trapez. As mr. Hicks I made the opening wider in the front, so that the gear-doors will be held open by the wind pressure. I will not make the doors until I have contoured the bottom to get them flush with the fuselage.
2013-12-27: I test-mounted the control-system to check the positions in the retracted and the extended position. Took a video of it.
2013-12-29: Made a plug for the nosewheel box of urethane foam.